Un-Halloween

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6:45pm

I criss-crossed the Manhattan “light zone” this afternoon, walking through Chelsea, Midtown, and Times Square. Nary a Halloween costume to be seen. The annual Halloween parade has been canceled. Not sure if the big Halloween party at Webster Hall is still happening tonight… as that’s smack dab in the dark zone. Their Halloween guy survived the storm, although he no longer has the glowing red eyes.

Light Manhattan

10:30am

Here on the light side, everything seems normal. Long line of people by the empire state building, as there is every day. It's turning into a nice, sunny (but chilly) day. The main reminder of sandy here is the groups of refugees from the dark side, seeking outlets. Every starbucks I've walked by today is in pandemonium, with lines going out the door. People are plugging in everywhere – the drugstore I'm standing next to now, for example – more people are in line for the two outlets here than at the register.

Dark Manhattan

It’s an interesting experience, walking into the dark zone here in the evening. I was around Madison and 30th last night when I noticed how dark it was. The only lights are mobile — headlights on cars, and bobbing flashlights and cellphones on people. The striking thing in that area is the fact that the buildings are tall and they’re totally dark. It’s like walking through a forest, particularly on side streets, where headlight beams play off the walls of buildings like they do with tall trees at night.

Walking further south, past residential buildings, I started to notice candles and flashlights in windows. Busy intersections get dicey for pedestrians — no traffic lights or street lights, and cars moving quickly, so people move in pods and flick flashlights back and forth so cars can see.

Coming down into my corner of the east village, I was surprised how unrecognizable it was. The defining features — restaurants, bars, shops — are virtually invisible. Groups of shadowy figures walk around. I was thinking they looked ominous and Halloween-appropriate, until I heard one of them enthusiastically say “this is the coolest fucking thing I’ve ever seen!” Nyu students.

On 2nd ave, I saw a crowd of 30 people gathered in front of a neighborhood organic grocer. On closer inspection, I saw that the store was giving away all of its produce before it went bad. People walked away with sacks of kale and broccoli.

 

Cell reception has, for me, completely disappeared in my neighborhood. So I feel cut off from everything when at home. I read the Steve jobs biography by candlelight last night — cranberry candlelight. No more hot water this morning, but my gas oven works, so I boiled up water with that and improvised a sponge bath.

This morning I am at a Starbucks in chelsea, charging up my iPad. There is a group of 9 people here all connected to a web of extension cords. As always in NYC, I’m impressed by all the little ways people take care of each other. Like right here, in the Starbucks, the extension cord I’m plugged into was brought by the people sitting across from me. Someone just asked “Does anyone need power? My laptop is charged now.” People are trading rumors about when the power will come back on — the consensus is Saturday.

No one is in costume and no one is talking about Halloween at all. 

I have no idea what’s happening in the news, haven’t checked news at all the past few days because I’ve been trying to conserve batteries. It’s kind of nice actually, being cut off from the constant wash of information. With no Internet at home and no cell reception, I’m freed from the urge to constantly check for updates. It’s relaxing to sit and read by candlelight.

The young performer

6pm

At the restaurant I'm in, a young hipster family is seated next to me. Their daughter, probably 4, is wandering to nearby tables, doing a dancing and singing routine. I told the dad "your daughter is quite the performer!" and he smiled and rolled his eyes.

Reminds me of my youngest sister — of the four of us kids, she was the most extroverted. We were at a restaurant in Seattle in 1997 and I remember how she (age 6) walked through the tables, playing her small casio keyboard for the nearby diners.

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The last candles in Manhattan

5:45pm – I was fretting this afternoon about the rapidly-draining batteries of my ipad and phone — and how seemingly all available public outlets here in the city are occupied — when a wise soul reminded me that I can read books (on paper), rather than gaze into the digital glow. So I went out in search of candles (I’m still up where there’s power at moment).

8 stores later, with candles depleted and people sitting on the floor next to outlets, and I found the last candles in Manhattan — the ones no one wants. “Cranberry dessert” scented candles. I look forward to these candles kindling the holiday spirit within me.

Wandered through Korea town.. Power is on here and restaurants are open! So I’m parked at one for now.

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Charging stations

4pm – I've seen a couple impromptu charging stations, where people are gathered around an outlet, connecting several devices to an extension cord. Saw a group of folks doing this on the street on 42nd, using a rare external wall outlet, and just saw a group of students doing the same thing in a cafe on 47th. I'm looking for an outlet myself but it's becoming clear it may be a while before I find one.

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